Last Updated on December 18, 2023 by Matt Hapgood

Oahu’s North Shore reverberates with the roar of the Banzai Pipeline, the Mount Everest of the surfing world. 

This iconic wave has become the ultimate proving ground, separating your regular Joe from legit surfing legends.

For decades, The Pipeline has been the gladiator pit, with surfers from all over the globe lining up to take their best shot in the greatest amphitheatre in surfing.

In this post I break down what makes the break so death-defying, the mechanics of the break, and of course the best Pipe surfers ever to have lived!

Origin of the name Banzai Beach

According to this article, the name of the Banzai Pipeline comes back the the Second World War.  Japanese soldiers on the Pacific Front held a belief that it was more noble to perish in battle than to be taken captive.

As they charged towards their adversaries, their rallying cry was “Tennōheika Banzai,” which means ‘long live his majesty the Emperor.’

After the war, many veterans found solace and settled on the North Shore of Oahu, a picturesque stretch now fondly termed the “Seven Mile Miracle.”

The waves around Pipe, with their raw, thunderous power evoked memories of those determined charges from the war. And so, the name “Banzai Beach” was coined.

Specifics of the Surf and Wave

In the early days, The Pipeline was thought of as just a left-hander – I dread to think of how many hours the wave was breaking with nobody up to the challenge of taking it on. More on that later…

The main break of Pipeline is a left which breaks over a seriously sharp, shallow lava reef. If the reef was perfectly flat that would be one thing, but it’s actually very lumpy, with caves, hollows and all sorts of holes – after a wipeout, it’s easy to get trapped in a cave, or get a limb stuck in a crack. Super dangerous. 

There are actually three reefs at Pipeline – First reef on the inside, which works on swell up to head high, and handles swell up to triple overhead in some instances.  

Second reef starts showing when the waves are around 15ft on the face. When you catch a wave at second reef, it’s often a gentle roll in at the takeoff, but as it approaches first reef it will lurch and double up into a monster tube. 

20-25ft faces will awaken the third reef which is located more than 100 yards from the beach. But when the swell is this big, there are so many waves that wash through, it’s rarely surfed. 

In terms of swell direction the main break of Pipeline favors swell direction of anything from West-North-West with an angle of (295-330°) – Specifically, a swell angle of 295-310° being optimum. 

Backdoor Pipe is basically the right off of the main wave of Pipeline. What used to be considered a close-out, is now a legit wave, which works on specific swells. Backdoor likes a mid-period swell, with an angle coming out of the North West to North-North West (315-350°). 

Competitions

There are 3 main competitions at Pipeline these days. 

The main event is the first stop on the World Surf League (WSL) championship which is held towards the end of January, The Billabong Pipe Masters.

The Pipe Masters is arguably the most prestigious event held at Pipeline.

Established in the early 1970s, this contest has grown exponentially in stature and now serves as the first stop on the World Surf League Championship Tour. 

There used to be a World Qualifying (or WQS) event at Pipeline, often sponsored by Volcom but this no longer runs. 

Another event which normally takes place in January is the invitation-only ‘Da Hui Backdoor Shootout’ normally featuring the best local talent.

The Early Pipe Pioneer: Phil Edwards

In the history of surfing, Phil Edwards holds a special place.

At a time when many viewed the Pipeline’s monstrous waves as unsurfable, Edwards had different ideas. 

Armed with a hand-shaped 10ft surfboard, more suited for riding the mellow peeling waves of Malibu in California, Edwards paddled out on an 8ft day and successfully rode the first wave at The Banzai Pipeline. 

The door was blown open, the beast could be ridden!  

The Allure of the Banzai Pipeline

Once Edwards had ridden a wave, others knew it was possible – guys like Butch Van Artsdalen, John Peck and Jock Sutherland were some of the best surfers at various surf spots on the North Shore. But they were particularly skilled on hollow days at the dangerous spot riding the best waves in the late 60’s.

I cannot understate the bravery of these guys – no leashes, no lifeguards and they were often surfing on boards they had made themselves. Prett unheard of these days! 

 So, let’s get into the best Pipe surfers of all time. 

10 of the Best Banzai Pipeline Surfers of All Time

1. Gerry Lopez 

The moniker “Mr. Pipeline” wasn’t just handed to Gerry Lopez; he earned it through sheer brilliance.

In the 1970s, Lopez displayed an unparalleled mastery of the Banzai Pipeline, reading its moods and nuances with a precision that left many in awe.

His unique style, blending fluidity with grace, transformed Pipeline surfing from a mere sporting event into a dance with nature. I’d say he was the person to surf in the tube – riding and waeving with grace. 

Beyond his wave-riding skills, Lopez’s contributions to board design and his philosophical insights into the sport cemented his status as a true legend. Even today, his iconic rides serve as inspiration for both budding surfers and seasoned pros.

2. Shaun Tomson 

The 1970s saw quite a few legends of the surf World grace the Pipeline, but few left an impact as profound as Shaun Tomson.

Hailing from South Africa, Tomson brought with him a fresh perspective, especially in backhand tube riding.

His innovative techniques and unique body positioning transformed the way surfers tackled the tube at Pipe, setting new paradigms in style and execution.

Beyond his brilliance, Tomson was a key figure in the ‘Free Ride Generation’, pushing boundaries and helping develop a pathway for professional surfing.

His contributions, both as a competitor and as an ambassador for the sport, make him one of the all-time greats.

3. Derek Ho

As Hawaii’s first-ever World champ, Derek Ho carries the weight of legacy and expectation with unparalleled grace. Born into a family of surfers, Ho’s bond with the Pipeline was almost preordained.

Over the years, he’s showcased consistency, skill, and an innate understanding of the wave’s character.

Ho’s dedication, not just to mastering the Pipeline but to nurturing the next generation of surfers, cements his legacy as both a champion and a true ambassador of the sport.

4. Tom Carroll

The world of surfing has seen many characters over the years, but little Tom Carroll stands out for his audacity and sheer technical brilliance.

During the 80s and 90s, Carroll’s exploits at Pipe were nothing short of legendary. Whether it was his death-defying snap under the lip in 1991 or his relentless pursuit of perfection in every ride, Carroll epitomized the spirit of a champion.

With two world titles and countless memorable moments, Carroll’s place in Pipeline folklore is firmly etched.

5. Kelly Slater

Well, what can you say about the GOAT (greatest of all time). The most famous surfer ever.

Kelly and the Momentum crew got absolutely hammered at Pipeline in their teenaged years – and had to pay their dues time and time again.

With the (now) infamous game of ‘you won’t go’ where a surfer goads his friend into trying to catch a seemingly unrideable wave, this form of one-upmanship raised the bar significantly, and at the same time gave the crew a level of confidence in the water that has taken them to new heights.

Kelly is the undisputed king in terms of contests at Pipe – he first won the Pipe Masters in 1992 at age 20 and then won it another 6 times, and then unbelievably at the ripe old age of (nearly) 50, he won it again in 2022!

A total of 8 Pipe Masters victories – 1992, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2008, 2013, 2022.

6. Rob Machado

In a world obsessed with titles and records, Rob Machado stands as a reminder that surfing, at its core, is about the joy of the ride.

With his trademark flowing locks and zen-like demeanor, Machado’s approach to the Pipeline is an embodiment of grace and fluidity.

His rides, characterized by seamless transitions and an unmistakable style, have earned him accolades and admiration.

But beyond the technical brilliance, it’s Machado’s philosophy—his deep connection with the ocean, flow and the movement of the wave—that sets him apart.

His journey, marked by introspection and a quest for harmony, serves as an inspiration to many, including me!

7. Andy Irons

Undoubtedly one of the best North Shore surfers ever to have lived.

Few surfers have ever commanded the Banzai Pipeline the way Andy Irons did.

Every ride was a visceral display of intensity, with Irons pouring his soul into conquering the wave. His fierce rivalries, especially with Slater, are legendary, often pushing both surfers to their limits.

Despite facing personal challenges, Irons’s love for surfing was evident every time he hit the water.

His ability to channel his emotions into his surfing, combined with his raw talent, made him a force of nature. Tragically, his life was cut short, but the legacy he left behind—of passion, determination, and sheer love for the wave—remains indelible.

8. Bruce Irons 

Living up to a legacy can be daunting, but Bruce Irons managed to carve out his own identity, even as he followed in the footsteps of his iconic brother, Andy.

Renowned for his fearless approach, Irons’s rides, especially during heavy swells at the Pipeline, are a testament to his talent and courage.

His deep-seated respect for the wave, combined with a knack for pulling off audacious manoeuvres, has seen him conquer some of the biggest barrels the Pipeline has to offer.

Each performance is a reminder that while he respects the legends that came before him, Bruce Irons is a legend in his own right.

9. Jamie O’Brien

Jamie O’Brien, often dubbed JOB, is not just a surfer; he’s a spectacle. Renowned for his audacious moves and a seemingly insatiable appetite for risk, O’Brien has carved out a niche for himself in the world of free-surfing.

At the Pipeline, he’s pulled off maneuvers that many thought impossible, often blurring the line between recklessness and genius.

Whether it’s charging monstrous barrels or pioneering new tricks, JOB’s approach to the Pipeline is characterized by innovation and sheer fearlessness.

His surfing videos, blending entertainment with jaw-dropping skill, have further cemented his status as a modern icon.

10. John John Florence

The prodigy of the North Shore, John John Florence’s connection with the Pipeline began when most kids were still playing with toys. Growing up in its shadow, Florence developed a kinship with the wave, understanding its moods and rhythms like few can.

His surfing style is a harmonious blend of power and finesse, marked by impeccable timing and sublime control.

Multiple world titles and spectacular performances later, Florence’s name has become synonymous with modern-day excellence in surfing. With every ride, he seems to pen a new chapter in the ever-evolving story of the Banzai Pipeline.

As you may have noticed, there aren’t any women surfers on this list, so I have compiled my list of best women surfers to surf Pipeline here. Check it out below.