The Best North Shore Surfers: Legends of Hawaii
Last Updated on December 18, 2023 by Matt Hapgood
The North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, is a mecca for surfers from around the world.
Known for its legendary waves, breathtaking scenery, and the fearless surfers who call it home, the North Shore has earned its reputation as a surfer’s paradise.
The North Shore: A Surfer’s Paradise
Located on the beautiful island of Oahu, the North Shore is blessed with a unique geography that creates ideal surfing conditions.
Its northern exposure to the Pacific Ocean means it consistently receives powerful swells, making it a must-visit destination for wave riders.
The North Shore boasts several famous surf breaks, each with its own character. From the legendary Pipeline with its monstrous tubes to the challenging Sunset Beach and the less-death-defying waves of Haleiwa, there’s a spot for every surfer’s preference.
In this article, we dive into the world of North Shore surfing and pay tribute to the legends who have carved their names into the annals of surfing history.
The Legends of North Shore Surfing
When it comes to North Shore legends, there’s a storied lineup of surfers who have left an indelible mark on the sport of surfing over the years.
These are the pioneers, the trailblazers, and the masters of wave riding. With no one else to look to, they have pushed the limits of what was possible allowing for deeper tube rides, riding bigger waves, and developing all manner of techniques even regular Joe’s use today.
1. Eddie Aikau
Eddie Aikau is a revered figure in the world of surfing, embodying the spirit of Hawaiian culture and surfing expertise.
Born in Maui, Hawaii, in 1946, he became not just a surfer, but also a lifeguard at the world-famous Waimea Bay.
Whilst he was an active lifeguard, not a single life was lost, underlining his dedication to the safety and well-being of others.
Eddie gained fame through his big wave surfing feats, notably riding monstrous waves that most would consider unmanageable.
One of his most notable achievements was winning the prestigious Duke Kahanamoku Invitational Surfing Championship in 1977.
Tragically, Eddie lost his life in 1978 during an ill-fated voyage of the Hokule’a, a traditional Polynesian canoe.
His disappearance led to the birth of the “Eddie Would Go” phrase, epitomizing the courage, selflessness, and the Aloha spirit that Eddie Aikau stood for.
Even today, his legacy lives on through “The Eddie” big wave invitational, held only when the waves at Waimea Bay meet a certain size.
2. Gerry Lopez
Often referred to as the “Mr. Pipeline,” Gerry Lopez’s mastery of The Banzai Pipeline set the standard for stylish, relaxed tube riding in death-defying situations.
Born in 1948 in Honolulu, Hawaii, Lopez rose to prominence in the 1970s for his mastery of the Banzai Pipeline, one of the most dangerous and iconic waves in the world.
His grace and skill earned him two prestigious Pipeline Masters titles in 1972 and 1973.
Lopez’s influence extends beyond competitive achievements. He was instrumental in advancing surfboard design, particularly in the realm of shorter, more maneuverable boards that became essential for tackling complex wave structures like the Pipeline.
As a craftsman, he founded his own surfboard company, Lightning Bolt, which had a profound influence on surf culture and equipment – and is still going today.
He’s also known for his ventures into acting and yoga, highlighting his multifaceted persona.
However, it is his contributions to surfing—both as a pioneer in wave riding and as a shaper of surfboards—that cement his legendary status. Lopez remains an enduring symbol of the sport, embodying the spirit, skill, and innovation that have come to define modern surfing.
For more insight into Gerry and his life, I highly recommend this movie The Ying and Yang of Gerry Lopez
3. Mark Foo
Mark Foo was a legendary big-wave surfer who made an indelible impact on the world of extreme sports.
Born in Singapore in 1958, Foo moved to Hawaii, the mecca of surfing, to pursue his passion.
Known for his daring spirit and fearless approach to monstrous waves, he became a significant figure in pushing the limits of what was considered surfable.
He was among the pioneers at Waimea Bay, Hawaii, and later at Mavericks in Northern California.
He was instrumental in popularizing tow-in surfing, a technique that allows surfers to catch waves otherwise deemed too large to paddle into.
He contributed to the sport not just as an athlete but also as a journalist, documenting surfing culture and events.
Tragically, Mark Foo’s life was cut short in 1994 when he drowned while surfing Mavericks – on an albeit innocous wipeout.
His legacy, however, endures through the Mark Foo Memorial Award, given to surfers who exhibit exceptional performance in big-wave surfing.
4. Duke Kahanamoku
Duke Kahanamoku, or simply, The Duke is often called The Father of Modern Surfing.
He was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, in 1890 and has become an emblematic figure in the history of surfing and water sports.
He was instrumental in popularizing surfing beyond Hawaii, showcasing the sport in places like the United States mainland and Australia.
His prowess on a surfboard was legendary, but Duke was also an outstanding swimmer. His swimming skills garnered him international acclaim, earning him five Olympic medals, including three golds in the 100-meter freestyle and relay events.
In 1912, he broke the world record for the 100-meter freestyle during his first trial, announcing his arrival on the international sports stage. Despite his achievements in swimming, it was his exhibition of surfing in places like Sydney’s Freshwater Beach in 1914 that helped the sport gain worldwide attention.
Duke also served as a lifeguard, reportedly saving numerous lives over his lifetime.
Duke’s influence transcended sports; he was also an ambassador of the Hawaiian culture and the “Aloha Spirit.”
In 1965, he was inducted into both the Swimming Hall of Fame and the Surfing Hall of Fame, forever cementing his status as a multi-talented waterman and a legend in two different disciplines.
His legacy is immortalized through various statues, competitions, and the continued global growth of surfing as a sport.
5. Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton, born in 1964 in San Francisco, California, is an American big-wave surfer and a pioneer in the world of water sports.
Widely considered one of the best big-wave surfers of all time, Hamilton has constantly pushed the boundaries of what’s possible in surfing.
He is probably best known for revolutionizing the concept of tow-in surfing, where a Jet Ski tows the surfer into waves that are too large and fast to paddle into. This innovation opened up the possibility of surfing massive waves previously considered unrideable.
The ‘Millenium Wave’ that Laird rode at Teahupoo in Tahiti was completely mind-blowing at the time. I vividly remember seeing the cover shot Surfer Magazine ran and thinking it was fake! The clip is below, which kinda looks tame by modern standards.
Laird’s influence extends beyond surfing into mainstream culture through his involvement in films, documentaries, and as an author.
He’s received multiple awards and honors for his contributions to the sport, including an induction into the Surfing Walk of Fame.
6. Andy Irons
Andy Irons, born in 1978 in Oahu, Hawaii, was a force to be reckoned with in the world of professional surfing.
Known for his fierce competitiveness and raw talent, Irons made an indelible mark on the sport before his untimely death in 2010. He was a three-time World Champion, winning the World Surf League title consecutively from 2002 to 2004.
Irons was one of the few surfers who could effectively challenge the dominance of Kelly Slater, making their rivalry one of the most talked-about in the history of the sport.
One of his most iconic achievements was winning the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, a prestigious trio of events held in Hawaii, a record four times. His talent was not confined to any single type of wave; he excelled in everything from small, technical conditions to huge heaving barrels.
Andy was also the recipient of numerous awards, including the 2003 and 2004 Surfer Poll Awards, recognizing him as the sport’s most popular surfer.
I remember the day Andy passed away – He was young, aged 32, but his impact on the world of surfing remains indelible.
The Andy Irons Foundation was established to honor his legacy, focusing on providing mental health support to young people.
As one of the most influential figures in modern surfing, Andy Irons’ story is a blend of extraordinary talent, fierce rivalry, and human vulnerability.
7. Tom Carroll
Tom Carroll is an Australian surfing legend born in 1961 in Sydney.
He gained prominence in the 1980s as one of the most dynamic competitors in professional surfing. Carroll won the World Surf League Championship twice, first in 1983 and then again in 1984, making him one of the standout surfers of his generation.
One of Carroll’s most iconic moments was captured in 1991 at Pipeline, where he executed a daring snap under the lip of a massive wave, a move that remains one of the most replayed and celebrated in surfing history.
The feat also earned him the prestigious Pipeline Masters title, which he won three times in total. Carroll was the first surfer to sign a million-dollar contract with a sponsor, Quiksilver, marking a turning point for the sport as it transitioned into a commercially viable enterprise.
Tom Carroll was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 1990 and later the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame in 1996.
His impact extends beyond championships and individual moments, serving as an inspiration for both his audacity in the water and his advocacy for surfers’ rights.
Even today, Carroll continues to surf and inspire, solidifying his status as a living legend.
8. Sunny Garcia
Sunny Garcia, born Vincent Sennen Garcia in 1970 in Oahu, Hawaii, is an influential figure in the world of professional surfing. Known for his powerful style and aggressive approach, Garcia became a dominant force in the sport during the 1990s and early 2000s.
He clinched the World Surf League Championship in 2000 after years of competitive surfing, a victory that solidified his place among the greats of the sport.
Garcia is particularly celebrated for his six wins at the Triple Crown of Surfing, one of the sport’s most prestigious titles that cover three significant events in Hawaii. This achievement remains unmatched, highlighting his mastery over Hawaii’s notoriously challenging waves.
Beyond the waves, Sunny Garcia has been an advocate for mental health, sharing his own struggles to help destigmatize the issue.
Sadly, he faced severe mental health challenges and was hospitalized in 2019 following a suicide attempt. Garcia’s impact on the sport, however, remains profound, and he is considered a legend in both competitive surfing and Hawaiian surf culture.
9. Keala Kenelly
Keala Kennelly, born in 1978 in Kauai, Hawaii, is a trailblazing figure in women’s professional surfing. Known for her fearless approach to big-wave surfing, Kennelly has broken multiple barriers in a sport historically dominated by men.
She turned pro at the age of 17 and quickly made her mark by securing numerous podium finishes in the World Surf League’s women’s tour, including several event wins.
Perhaps her most groundbreaking achievement was winning the women’s division of the 2018 Jaws Big Wave Championships in Maui. This victory solidified her status as one of the world’s premier big-wave surfers and was a landmark moment for women in the sport.
Kennelly was also the first woman to surf Teahupo’o, one of the heaviest and most dangerous waves in Tahiti, further cementing her legacy as a pioneer in big-wave surfing.
Off the water, Kennelly has been an outspoken advocate for gender equality in surfing, fighting for equal prize money and more opportunities for female athletes.
She has also dabbled in acting and DJing, showcasing she’s not just a one-trick pony!
10. Kelly Slater
Kelly Slater, born in 1972 in Cocoa Beach, Florida, is the GOAT – the greatest of all time – when it comes to surfing anyway.
His dominance in the sport is perhaps most notably exemplified by his unparalleled 11 World Surf League Championships, but his achievements in Hawaii are particularly extraordinary.
Slater has won the prestigious Triple Crown of Surfing, a series of three events held in Hawaii, a total of two times (1995, 1998) and even today he is probably the most famous surfer on the planet.
His performances at the Pipeline Masters, the crown jewel of the Triple Crown and one of the most iconic surf spots in the world, have been nothing short of legendary.
Slater has won this illustrious event an incredible EIGHT times, the first win coming in 1992 and the most recent in 2022, showcasing his longevity and enduring skill.
His affinity with the Hawaiian waves also includes victories at other legendary spots like Sunset Beach and Haleiwa.
Slater’s mastery of Hawaii’s most challenging waves has not only won him titles but also the respect and admiration of the surfing community worldwide.
Slater’s impact on the sport of surfing, especially with his achievements in Hawaii, has firmly cemented his legacy as the greatest surfer in history.
11. Bethany Hamilton
Bethany Hamilton, born in 1990 in Lihue, Hawaii, is not just a phenomenal surfer; she’s a symbol of resilience and inspiration.
Hamilton captured the world’s attention in 2003 when, at the age of 13, she survived a shark attack that resulted in the loss of her left arm. Despite the life-altering event, Hamilton returned to competitive surfing just a few months later, defying all odds and expectations.
In Hawaii, her home state, Hamilton has showcased her extraordinary skills on many occasions. She has competed in—and excelled at—numerous Hawaiian competitions, even while surfing against fully able-bodied competitors.
Her performances in the challenging Hawaiian waves, considered among the toughest in the world, have garnered her widespread acclaim. In 2014, Hamilton finished third in the World Surf League’s Fiji Women’s Pro, proving her ability to compete with the best in the sport.
Bethany Hamilton’s life story was immortalized in the 2011 feature film “Soul Surfer,” and she has received numerous awards for her courage and sportsmanship.
Beyond her achievements in surfing, Hamilton is an advocate, motivational speaker, and author, inspiring millions with her message of resilience and faith.
She continues to compete, breaking barriers and setting new standards for what’s possible, not just in the realm of surfing but for athletes overcoming adversity everywhere.
12. Buzzy Trent
Buzzy Trent, born in 1929 in San Diego, California, was a big-wave surfing pioneer who became synonymous with riding massive Hawaiian swells during the 1950s.
Trent made his name surfing the mighty waves of Makaha and Waimea Bay, setting the stage for future generations of big-wave surfers. His famous quote, “Big waves aren’t measured in feet, but in increments of fear,” encapsulates his daring approach to the sport.
Trent was among the first group of mainland surfers to venture to Hawaii specifically to challenge the giant waves, helping to draw attention to the North Shore as a big-wave surfing Mecca.
He was also one of the earliest adopters of the “gun” surfboard design, a longer and narrower board better suited for big-wave riding, which became a critical development in the evolution of big-wave surfing.
Though never a competitive surfer in the modern sense, Trent’s influence and achievements were primarily experiential and inspirational. His audacious exploits were captured in early surf films and magazines, providing one of the first windows into the extreme challenges and rewards of big-wave surfing.
Trent retired from big-wave surfing in the early 1960s, but his impact on the sport and the allure of big-wave riding endures. He was inducted into the Huntington Beach Surfing Walk of Fame in 1996, forever cementing his legacy as one of the original big-wave legends.
13. Rell Sunn
Rell Sunn, born in 1950 in Makaha, Hawaii, was a pioneering figure in the world of women’s surfing and an ambassador for Hawaiian culture. Known as the “Queen of Makaha,” Sunn was instrumental in putting women’s professional surfing on the map.
Her grace on the waves and her deep love for her Hawaiian heritage made her a beloved figure both in and out of the water.
Sunn was one of the original members of the Women’s Professional Surfing organization and competed in the first women’s World Championships in 1975.
Throughout her career, she showcased her skills in numerous Hawaiian surf competitions, becoming a regular fixture on the winner’s podium. Her ability to navigate the challenging Hawaiian waves with elegance and poise set her apart and solidified her reputation as one of the best female surfers of her time.
Rell Sunn was not only a surfing icon but also a dedicated community activist.
She was involved in numerous charitable activities, including educational programs to help underprivileged youth.
Sadly, she passed away in 1998 after a long battle with breast cancer, but her legacy continues to live on through the Rell Sunn Educational Fund and the annual Rell Sunn Menehune Surf Contest in Makaha, which fosters young talent.
14. Brock Little
Brock Little, born in 1967 in Napa, California, but raised in Hawaii, was a highly influential big-wave surfer and a legend in the world of extreme sports.
Little gained international fame in the 1980s and 1990s for his fearless approach to surfing some of the world’s largest and most dangerous waves, particularly in Hawaii. His name became synonymous with the infamous surf break, Waimea Bay, where he pushed the boundaries of what was considered possible.
One of his most memorable feats came during the 1990 Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau contest at Waimea Bay, where he took on monstrous waves that reached up to 40 feet – shown in the photo above. He got absolutely smashed on this wave, but set the bar so high, it took other surfers years to catch up with his performance.
Although Little didn’t win the contest, his bravery captured the essence of big-wave surfing and earned him a reputation as a pioneer of big wave surfing.
I actually remember my brother having a copy of Surfer Magazine, and I think this shot was on the cover with the tagline “How big can Little go” – that image has stayed with me to this day!
And of course Brock was not just a surfer; he was also a Hollywood stuntman, contributing to various films and TV shows.
Sadly, he passed away in 2016 after a battle with cancer, but his contributions to surfing live on. He was posthumously inducted into the Hawaii Waterman Hall of Fame, cementing his legacy as one of surfing’s true pioneers.
15. Michael Ho
Michael Ho, born in 1957 in Honolulu, Hawaii, is a highly respected figure in the surfing world and a part of Hawaii’s rich surfing lineage.
A small but fearless surfer, Ho is renowned for his remarkable tube-riding skills and his tenacity in big waves. His competitive career kicked off in the late 1970s, and he swiftly rose through the ranks, securing several wins and high finishes in prestigious events, both in Hawaii and overseas.
One of Ho’s most iconic achievements is his victory at the 1982 Pipeline Masters, one of the most celebrated surf competitions in the world, held on the North Shore of Oahu.
This win at one of surfing’s most dangerous and iconic waves was a defining moment in his career. Additionally, Ho captured the Triple Crown of Surfing title twice, in 1983 and 1985, demonstrating his mastery over the Hawaiian waves that are a part of this prestigious series.
Michael Ho has also served as an influential mentor within the surfing community, particularly to his son Mason and daughter Coco, both of whom have become successful professional surfers.
His contributions to the sport and the Hawaiian surfing community are immense, not just in terms of his own achievements but also in his role as a father and mentor to the next generation.
These are just a few of the many legends who have graced the North Shore with their presence and skill.
Each of them has contributed to the rich tapestry of North Shore surfing, leaving an enduring legacy that continues to shape the sport.
Inspired?
Check my list of the best Pipeline Surfers
