2 Minute Read This story takes me back to the summer of 1998.  I was 18 and had just left high school. I wanted to embark on my first-ever surf trip to France without my parents. Tristan ‘Dooma’ Davies, a good mate of mine, accompanied me on the trip, which first of all took us…

6-8 Minute Read Traveling comes with the “surfing package.” You will hardly ever meet a surfer, who is happy to stay put and surf the same waves day-in-day-out. In fact, almost all surfers I’ve met actually get into surfing because, it gives them an excuse to explore the globe – and that’s a pretty darn good excuse!…

6-8 Minute Read Someone once said, “Here comes the sun do, do, do. Here comes the sun, and I say, it’s all right.” They were right about two things. First, yes, the sun is coming / will come. And second, that it does indeed tend to make things alright. That’s probably why so many of…

6-8 Minute Read In his feature film, The Drifter, Rob Machado famously reflects on the contrasting beauties of sunrises versus sunsets: “I never really understood why people gather to watch the sun disappear. There is so much more beauty in watching something arrive.” Although I agree with Machado that sunrises are more beautiful, I wouldn’t…